February 14, 2017

I am passionate about beautiful lines, or finding that zen head space that can happen when I’m scared and pumped out of my mind. Time stands still when I’m able to link breath with movement, and my only thoughts are of what is directly in front of me. Nothing makes me more present, and fully aware of my humanity, flaws and strengths. Climbing can be such a struggle, but it can also be something that is done with so much ease and grace. There’s a balance between the two, constant opposing directions of movement and emotions. Something about the complex, simplicity sparks a fire inside of me and makes me feel that there’s more beauty to life.

training

Photography by Betabandits

My boyfriend, Corey, and I are both climbers. We are also planners and goal setters, so starting a training plan to get stronger and develop our climbing abilities only seemed like a natural step for us. Not to say that I hadn’t trained in the past or tried to go to the gym x number of days, but this was my first truly structured, training plan. I ended up having to cut out or minimize a lot of extra activities, which in turn gave me more strength and energy to direct towards my climbing. We made an 8 week Periodization Cycle plan based off of the, “Rock Climber’s Training Manual” and I couldn’t recommend it enough.
Our training was set up around our two week, bouldering trip to Bishop, CA where we would spend our Peak or Performance weeks. There were four phases to our plan:

  1. Base Fitness
  2. Strength
  3. Power
  4. Performance

training

Photography by Betabandits

Each climber will have a bit of a different plan, based on their specific skills and experience, but the general outline can be applied to most. Both of us climbed the hardest we have personally climbed outside on that trip to Bishop. Once we came back to Orange County, we took a couple weeks to casually climb/bike/rest/yoga etc.

A week and a half ago we started a 16 week cycle, focused on Sport Climbing. We plan to be in the Red River Gorge during our performance weeks. We have primarily been boulderers for the better part of our time as climbers, that being said, we [desperately] need to train endurance, so this cycle is almost twice as long:

  1. Base Fitness
  2. Strength
  3. Power
  4. Power Endurance
  5. Performance

training

Photography by Betabandits

Below is a photo of our training calendar for our current Sport Climbing Cycle. I could go into more detail on exactly what we do, but it would serve you better by reading the “Rock Climber’s Training Manual” on your own; it is written by people with more experience and knowledge as climbers. I included this photo just as an example of how we plan out what we will do each day. You could do this many different ways, as long as you find something that you can stick with and go back to for reference.

training
Climbing is something I will endlessly be thankful for. It has taught (and continues to teach) me so much. Training can seem ridged, I do spend more time in the gym than outdoors, but in the end it develops and strengthens me as a climber. If you haven’t yet made a training schedule for yourself and you are finding yourself at a plateau, I would strongly recommend starting a cycle of your own! Who knows, it may give you the dedication and fire you need for your next trip outdoors.

Lots of Love,

Kayla from the betabandits


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